Sureau Sew-along: Installing the Zipper

A little change of plans: today we were supposed to cover the sleeve insertion, but I decided to go with the zipper first.
I actually find that if you're using the method I'm about to illustrate, it's easier to install the zipper before you even sew the shoulder and side seams, because the dress is much easier to manipulate at this stage (you don't want to accidentally catch a sleeve under the presser foot, do you?).

So, what you need to do before installing the zipper?
✄ Stitch the darts
✄ Gather the front bodice and stitch the button placket
✄ Gather the skirt panels and stitch them to the front and back bodice
✄ Finish your seam allowances on the right side of the dress separately

[This is very stupid, but it ALWAYS confuses me (I hope I'm not the only one): the zipper goes on the left side of the garment when you wear it, so during construction, when you have the garment in front of you, the zipper will be on the right side.]

If you're done with everything, let's proceed.

On the left of the zipper mark: regular stitch length. On the right: basting stitch

The process is basically the same as we've seen when we sewed our muslin.
This time though, you will need to stitch your right side seam:
✄ use a regular stitch length from the top of the side seam to the zipper mark.
✄ Backstitch, then set your machine to a basting stitch (4-5mm) and stitch all the way down to the zipper end mark.
✄ Set your machine back to the regular lenght, backstitch, and sew all the way down to the hem.

Press your seam open with the help of a seam roll.

On the wrong side of the garment, lay the zipper right side down on the basted portion and pin it.

Still on the wrong side of the dress, baste the zipper and remove the pins.
I know hand basting is boring, but it will take you 5 minutes tops and it will ensure you won't f*** up your zipper installment, which you'll appreciate, especially if you're a beginner.

I'm using a photo of the muslin construction because my black and white fabric was very difficult to photograph... Sorry!

Flip the garment on the right side and stitch the zipper using a zipper foot. You can use your hands to feel where the zipper teeth are and stay close to them.
When you reach the bottom of the zipper, pivot, sew over the zipper (but be careful not to sew over the metal part, you'll break your needle!!!) and stitch the other side of the zipper.

Now you just need to remove the basting with the help of a seam ripper to reveal your beautiful zipper!

Of course, if you prefer, you can use an invisible zipper, or, if you know a method that you like better, feel free to use it (and share it, please, I'm curious)!
This one is probably my favorite method and the one I would recommend to a beginner.