Did you see the new pattern release by Deer and Doe yesterday? It's the Aubépine dress!
Aubépine is and empire waist dress with horizontal tucks on the bodice and sleeves. Variations include elbow-length and short sleeves.
I was a tester for this pattern and the first time I saw the technical drawing I was a little bit worried because empire waist + boobs give the "pregnancy effect" very easily. But hey, Eléonore has designed for women with C/D cups since day one, so I was sure there must have been a lot of thought behind this dress. And of course there was!
Not only it doesn't make me look pregnant, but it's extremely flattering! The neckline is beautiful, the tucks are adorable, the pleated skirt is simple but dreamy and it has pockets!
This was my test version and even though I didn't make a muslin before cutting my fashion fabric, it's perfectly wearable. I cut my usual size 38 (shoulders and bust) - 40 (waist) - 44 (hips), and the only alteration I needed was to shorten the bust darts (which I haven't done yet because it was too hot to wear this dress until last week). I used a weird fabric, it's like a very drapey gabardine, which I was attracted to because of the vibrant jewel color, but it wasn't the easiest to sew and press.
Constructing this dress is pretty easy, you just need to take your time marking and sewing the tucks, and the rest is easy peasy. The pattern calls for a drawstring at the waist, but I preferred inserting elastic. Because I had already sewn the buttonholes for the string in the center front, I concealed them with a bow, and I really love how that turned out. I also did a rolled hem with my serger (new favorite hemming technique, btw) because I knew a regular hem would look awful with this fabric.
I'm seriously in love with this dress and I'm planning an everyday version in Liberty with short sleeves and slightly raised neckline.
What do you say? Did you like this new release?
If you're not completely sold on it yet, I urge you to go look at Magali's, Julie's and Clotilde's renditions, they're absolutely gorgeous!