Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Sureau Sew-along: Fixing the Shoulder Line

Today we're going to see ho to adjust the pattern in case of a gaping neckline or a shoulder line that tends to ride up and not stay at its place.
Luckily, this alteration is extremely easy, but it's meant as a small adjustment (no more than 2 cm).

First off, determine on your muslin how much fabric you need to eliminate by pinching the shoulder seam.

Now mark the measurement you got on the shoulder line of the front bodice (side of the neckline). Draw a line going from this point to the other corner of the shoulder. Cut the excess.

Do the same thing to the back bodice.

Now lay your front bodice on your back, matching the shoulder lines. On the front piece, mark the seam allowance, 1,5cm down from the edge and re-draw the neckline of the back bodice do that they meet at the seam allowance. You can use a French curve to help you.

Remember to modify your facings accordingly, and you're done!

As always, you can check Eléonore's post on her blog.

EDIT: If your neckline is still gaping after this adjustment, I strongly recommend to try Stephanie's tutorial. It helped me A LOT.


  1. Thank you for these tutorial posts, very helpful.
    I used to make this adjustment and just fumble my way through it and would chop off the cms the same across the whole shoulder. didn't really solve the problem, now I know why hehe

  2. Excellent- I have just finished my second bodice muslin and this is the only issue I have left. I'll give it a try on the weekend :D

  3. Same here! I'm going to have to do more adjustments because the neckline gapes A LOT on me, and will document what worked best for me. Fingers crossed for both of us!

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