Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Sureau Sew-along: Sleeveless variation

If you want to make your dress sleeveless and don't feel like drafting a facing for the armhole, you can use bias tape! This is my favorite finishing method.

Of course, you're going to need bias tape, either store bought or self-made. It must be between 3,5 and 4cm wide.
Measure your armhole and cut a strip of bias tape of the same length + 1 cm for seam allowance. Stitch the ends with right sides together.

Pin the band to the armhole on the right side of the dress, then stitch using a 1,5cm seam allowance.

Now turn the bias tape and understitch as close as you can to the seam line (2-3mm). You will be stitching through the bias tape and both seam allowances underneath.

Trim the seam allowance excess and clip it (be careful not to clip in the seam).

Fold the bias tape in half so that it meets the seam line. Press it with the help of a tailor's ham if you need to (in most cases, I find that finger-pressing is sufficient).
Then turn toward the wrong side of the dress and pin.

Finally, you just need to sew as close as possible to the edge and press carefully to make it lie flat.
Don't skip this step! I did, and as you can see from these photos, the edge looks quite messy and it doesn't lie flat. Never underestimate the power of your pressing iron!

If you want to see another alteration, check out Eléonore's post!


  1. What's a good way of measuring the armhole for bias? Do you measure it in the flat or after sewing? I tried doing it this way a couple of times and it didn't work too well so I just finish the side seam post bias sewing =S

  2. I usually measure the pattern pieces to be more precise, but if I'm lazy I'll just attach it and finish it after sewing, but it doesn't look as neat as with this method.

  3. Tantissimissima ammirazione :) Ogni volta che passo nel tuo blog resto a sospirare e mi domando perche' non ho ricevuto il dono di mia mamma e di mia nonna, che a differenza di me hanno delle mani d'oro con ago e filo! *_*