Saturday, May 17, 2014

Burdastyle Magazine 06/2014

Here we go again!
I'm quite pleased with this issue and there are a few patterns I like (yay!), so, for once, I will start with the uglies.

UGGGHHHH. Rectangles!!!
As Lauren of Lladybird once did, I find myself having to quote Michael Scott. Enough with the freakin' rectangles!

So ugly.
I hate everything about this romper, down to the thigh binding, which manages to look ugly on the model's perfect thighs.

I liked this so much in the photo, and then I was extremely disappointed by the technical drawing. Overdesigned and awkward. Pass.

It's cute, but Carme blouse much?

I liked this at first, but the more I look at it, the more awkward it feels. I was probably attracted by the print.
I dunno. Too gimmicky, maybe?

Now, onto the good better stuff.
The racer back tank is a great basic and it could come in handy especially to those who sew their own workout gear (like a few more patterns below).
I used to own a skort exactly like the one pictured here in my tennis-playing years, and I loved it to pieces. Again, it feels a bit awkward, so I dunno.

I probably won't make these for myself, but as I mentioned before, this is a cute activewear pattern.

And so are these pants. I probably wouldn't be caught dead in them outside the house, but I'd like them as loungewear or pjs.
The blouse is cute but I'm not sure about the way it hangs off the shoulders...

Two very simple dresses that I probably wouldn't consider for myself, but would look great on a lot of women.
Also, I love the styling in this photoshoot, for once! The shoes in this issue are almost all drool-worthy.

I'd love this a lot more without the pleated panel, I think it's too much. The shoulders are pretty fab, though.
It's a pity they made it in such a dark colour, concealing all the pretty details. And what's with all the three-quarter posing?

Coup de coeur of the month! Feminine, elegant, flattering. I'm in love!

Finally, plus-size patterns!
The offerings in this section are not earth shattering this month, but this dress is worth mentioning. It looks very flattering.

I really like this slouchy blouse with the front slits, but the pants are offensive. They would be unflattering on basically any size... Yuck.

And that is it!
What do you guys think of this issue?Will you buy it? Or like me, you'll probably just drool on the shoes?

Saturday, May 10, 2014

Minerva Blogger Network: a floral Emery dress

Pattern: Emery dress by Christine Haynes (purchased via Urban Cut).
Size: 6
Alterations: I made a 1,5cm FBA following this brilliant tutorial; lengthened the sleeves by about 4cm.
Fabric: floral cotton lawn and blue polycotton from Minerva Crafts.

As I mentioned in my last post for the Minerva Blogger Network, I wasn’t really over the moon about my last three kits. I put them together with the intention of trying new materials and going a little out of the box, but as it turns out, when you have a deadline and you can’t dedicate too much time to these projects, experimenting is not the best idea. So while putting together the following three kits, I decided to go back to basics: my favourite fabric, cotton (cotton lawn in particular) and my favourite type of garment, dresses.

So, this month, I am presenting you a rather simple dress, but it’s one I am really happy about. I chose an extremely cute floral cotton lawn, which is perfect for Spring, and decided to add a blue contrast collar.

The pattern is used is once again the Emery dress by Christine Haynes, which you've already seen here and here. This pattern is well drafted, simple to make and has great instructions. And it has pockets, too! :D I cut my usual size 6 with a 1,5cm FBA.

There’s not a lot to say about construction, because, as I mentioned, the instructions are pretty straightforward. I particularly like the way the collar is constructed, because it makes it so much easier to have a perfect match at the centre front. The only change I made is that I didn’t line the bodice, so I finished the neckline with self-made bias tape.

As anticipated, this dress might not be earth-shattering, but it fits perfectly in my wardrobe and I feel happy wearing it, which is a win-win.

Finally, a word on my glasses: they're new and they're courtesy of Ozeal Glasses. The pair I chose is a cat eye shape (my favorite) from designer Human Skull, the model is called Amy Red (unfortunately not available at the moment, a similar pair could be this one).
Anyway, the variety on the site is huge, the customer service was great with me, and the glasses themselves are honestly good quality, especially if you consider the price. I think this site is great if you want a spare pair of glasses or want to try a different frame without spending a lot (they also offer free shipping). Recommended! :D

Modello: abito Emery di Christine Haynes (acquistato da Urban Cut).
Taglia: 6
Modifiche: ho aggiunto 1,5cm per il petto seguendo questo fantastico tutorial e ho allungato le maniche di circa 4cm.
Tessuto: cotone floreale e misto cotone blu di Minerva Crafts.

Come avevo accennato nel mio ultimo post per il Minerva Blogger Network, non sono molto soddisfatta dei miei ultimi 3 kit. Quando li ho messi insieme, volevo provare tessuti nuovi e fare delle cose un po' diverse, ma a quanto pare, quando si ha una scadenza al mese e poco tempo da dedicarvi, sperimentare non è la scelta migliore.

Quindi, quando ho creato i successivi 3 kit, ho deciso di tornare alle origini: ho scelto la mia stoffa preferita, il cotone, e il mio capo di abbigliamento preferito, l'abito.

Perciò questo mese vi presento un abitino relativamente semplice, ma del quale sono molto felice. Ho scelto un carinissimo cotone floreale, perfetto per la primavera e ho deciso di aggiungergli un colletto a contrasto.

Il modello che ho usato è ancora una volta l'abito Emery di Christine Haynes, che vi ho già mostrato qui e qui. Si tratta di un modello ben disegnato, semplice da realizzare e che ha delle ottime istruzioni. Ho tagliato la mia solita taglia 6 con una modifica per il seno di 1,5cm.

Non c'è granchè da dire sull'assemblaggio, perchè, come accennato, è piuttosto semplice. Mi piace in particolare come viene cucito il colletto, perchè è semplicissimo farlo combaciare al centro della scollatura.
L'unico cambiamento che ho fatto è stato di non foderare il corpino, e di rifinire la scollatura con dello sbieco fatto in casa.

Come ho detto, non è un abito rivoluzionario, ma si integra perfettamente nel mio guardaroba e mi indossarlo mi rende felice, perciò è una vittoria su tutti i fronti.

Infine, due parole sui miei occhiali. Sono nuovi e mi sono stati mandati da Ozeal Glasses. Quelli che ho scelto io sono il modello Amy Red del designer Human Skull (purtroppo non disponibili al momento, ma questi sono simili).
Questo sito offre una varietà enorme di scelta, il servizio clienti è stato fantastico con me e gli occhiali sono di buona qualità, specialmente se si considera il prezzo.
Penso sia un'ottima risorsa se siete alla ricerca di un paio di occhiali di riserva o se volete provare una montatura diversa senza spendere un capitale (la spedizione è addirittura gratuita). Raccomandato! :D 

Monday, May 5, 2014

Ethnic Centaurée dress

Size: 40 (42 for the skirt)
Alterations: 3cm small back adjustment.
Fabric: a beautiful cotton lawn with an ethic print, purchased locally. Blue polycotton from Minerva Crafts. 

If you guys didn't notice the release of Deer and Doe's latest pattern, the Centaurée dress, you're missing out!
As usual, I was lucky enough to be included in the testing process of this pattern, and, again as usual, it was a delight.
The Centaurée dress was created by Eléonore almost on a whim (as she explains here), the design came together very quickly, and I fell in love with it design immediately.

First of all, I was over the moon about a new Deer and Doe dress, because it's the type of garment I wear most often and enjoy sewing the most. Furthermore, the dress options by Deer and Doe rank between my favorite patterns ever (Bleuet in primis, then Belladone and Sureau).
And once again, I wasn't disappointed!

Starting with the fit: as I mentioned countless times, I'm lucky enough to have exactly the type of body these patterns are designed for, so not only they flatter me, I also need to make very little alterations.
For Centaurée, I cut a size 40 and made a small back alterations, removing 3 cm from the back bodice. Actually that's what I did for my muslin, but when I cut my fabric I found it to be a little small, so I had to let out the side seam by exactly 3 cm total... I think it might be because some of the pieces of the bodice weren't cut correctly on grain (I didn't have enough fabric), but I'm not sure. I'll need to look out for that in my next version.

Centaurée is rated as intermediate, but an advanced beginner can tackle it as well. The only difficult aspects of this pattern are fitting the bodice correctly (please, please, PLEASE make a muslin) and sewing the bias tape precisely. The rest is actually really fun and quick to assemble. If the illustrated instructions are not enough for you, or this pattern still scares you a bit, there's a sewalong coming your way very soon! Yay!

I'm really in love with this dress and I want to sew many more, playing with just a print or a completely solid fabric (that's probably enough color blocking for me for a while) and with the strap placement... Maybe a maxy version too?

Taglia: 40 (42 per la gonna)
Modifiche: ridotto il corpino dietro di 3 cm.

Tessuto: Un bellissimo cotone con stampa etnica, acquistato localmente. Misto cotone blu di Minerva Crafts.

Avete visto che oggi è uscito il nuovo modello Deer and Doe? Si tratta dell'abito Centaurée.
Come al solito ho avuto la fortuna di essere una delle tester per questo modello, e come al solito, è stato un processo molto divertente. L'abito Centaurée è stato creato da Eléonore quasi di getto (come spiega qui), è stato realizzato molto velocemente, e io me ne sono innamorata subito.

Innanzitutto ero felicissima che si trattasse di un abito, il tipo di indumento che indosso di più e che mi diverte maggiormente cucire. Inoltre, gli abiti Deer and Doe sono tra i miei modelli preferiti di sempre (Bleuet in primis, poi Belladone e Sureau).
E ancora una volta, non sono stata delusa!

A cominciare dalla vestibilità: come ho già detto un sacco di volte, ho la fortuna di avere il tipo di corporatura per cui questi modelli vengono pensati, perciò non solo mi donano, ma richiedono anche pochissime modifiche. Per Centaurée, ho tagliato una 40 e ho fatto una modifica per la schiena piccola, rimuovendo 3 cm dal centro del corpino dietro. In realtà è quello che ho fatto per la telina, ma dopo aver montato l'abito vero e proprio era un po' troppo stretto; ho allargato le cuciture laterali per un totale di 3 cm... Non so bene perchè sia successa questa cosa, se sia dovuta al fatto che alcuni pezzi del corpino non sono stati tagliati in drittofilo perchè mi mancava la stoffa... Dovrò starci attenta per la mia prossima versione!

Centaurée è classificato a livello intermedio, ma anche una principiante avanzata ce la può fare. Le parti difficili sono ottenere una vestibilità corretta (PER FAVORE fate una telina prima di tagliare il tessuto!) e cucire lo sbieco con precisione. Il resto è divertente e veloce da cucire.
Se le istruzioni illustrate non sono abbastanza o se questo modello vi spaventa ancora un po', c'è un sewalong in arrivo prestissimo! Evviva!

Sono davvero innamorata di quest'abito e voglio cucirne molti altre versioni, probabilmente a tinta unita o completamente stampati (basta color blocking per ora!) e giocando un po' con le bretelline... Magari anche una versione con gonna lunga?

Sunday, May 4, 2014

La Mia Boutique 05/2014

For someone like me, who's not the best at photo editing and has a crappy scanner, preparing images for this type of post can be a rather long process.

So when, like this month, the content of the issue is not exactly stellar, I find myself a little frustrated by all the work and I don't really feel like writing a long commentary.

So please excuse me if I'll keep my review of LMB for this month rather short, but I'm not in the mood XD
I'll proceed in the order the patterns are presented in the magazine, and not by preference.

Eesh. When the second pattern in the issue is this dowdy, you know it's not going to end well.

Even the model is not happy with this unflattering, sad dress.
Nope, it seems like it's her standard face. Or she's not happy with this one either, which would be understandable, as it is, again, very unflattering, and straight out of a New Years party in 1998.


This is actually cute and I would wear it. Although I would probably style it better in the dark...

Eh. Cute? It's an H&M design, though, which seems pretty desperate to me.
All that gathering might not be for everyone.

The top might be cute although, again, not really for everyone. The skirt is too ugly to even consider it.
Again, tragic styling.

Boring skirt, over-designed blouse. BURN THOSE SHOES.

The top is actually incredibly cute! YAY! I found something I would make!
The pants are fine, although pretty standard.

Super cute dress, completely ruined by that gingham monstrosity.

To say this is not my cup of tea would be an understatement, but at least it's mildly interesting.

If you want to see the rest of the patterns in this issue, here they are:
Click here for full size
Aaand... I'm out. As anticipated, quick and painless!
And pretty bitchy too, I realize. I hope you guys don't mind :D