Thursday, March 6, 2014

Pattern testing : Deer and Doe Anémone skirt

Size: 40 at the waist, 42 at the hips
Alterations: lengthened short version by about 2,5cm
Fabric: wool from my stash

Did you see the new pattern from Deer and Doe, released yesterday? After a couple of more casual designs, Chataigne and Plantain, Eléonore took the dressy route and gave us Anémone, an extremely cute skirt in two versions: short, with peplums, and longer, with decorative buttons.

Blouse: OVS
And really, what's not to like in this pattern?
The fitted high waist is incredibly flattering, and so is the gently flared shape; the peplums are incredibly stylish and, to my dismay, they not only help to minimize large hips, they also elongate the legs.
The longer version has a 40's vibe which, hello!, I adore and the buttons are the perfect little touch to complete the picture.

The construction is also a lovely process (an it's fast) and the instructions are detailed as ever.
The skirt is fully lined, so it's marked as intermediate, but a confident beginner might manage just fine (just know there's some hand sewing involved).

Leotard: OVS

I made these two versions as a tester for the pattern and I was, as always, very impressed by the fit. With Deer and Doe, I know I just have to pick my usual size (38 for the shoulders, 40 for the waist and 42 for the hips) and I know I won't need any alterations... Mind blowing!
I know that fit is extremely personal, and not everyone will be as lucky, but, hey, I can only vouch for myself, and I couldn't be more satisfied.

There are only two things I will change for my future versions:

Length: the short version of the pattern is a little too short for my comfort and the long version is a little too long (with my height, it only looks flattering if I'm wearing heels, which I don't very often). I'll draw my hemline between these two, so that the skirt hits me at my perfect spot, just above the knee.

Fabric: I used wool from my stash because I'm too cheap to I don't really like to go fabric shopping for test versions, because sometimes they're not wearable, but it's not in the recommended fabrics, and rightly so. Both fabrics I used were a little too bulky for this pattern (especially the check one), and just didn't have the correct drape. Just look how much better this skirt hangs when made in a beautiful printed cotton (by Sandra) or in a heavier, solid cotton (by Clotilde)!

What fabric would (or will) you use?

Taglia: 40 in vita, 42 per i fianchi
Modifiche: allungato la versione corta di circa 2,5cm
Tessuto: lana dalla mia collezione

Avete visto il nuovo modello di Deer and Doe, uscito ieri? Dopo un paio di design più casual, Chataigne e Plantain, Eléonore ha imboccato una strada più elegante e ci ha regalato Anémone, una gonna carinissima in due versioni: corta con pepli, e lunga con bottoni decorativi.

Camicetta: OVS
E cosa manca a questo modello? La vita molto alta ed aderente sta benissimo a praticamente tutte, così come la forma leggermente scampanata. I pepli sono estremamente stilosi, e contrariamente a quanto pensassi, non solo non allargano i fianchi, ma aiutano anche ad allungare le gambe. La versione più lunga ricorda un po' gli anni '40, che ovviamente adoro e ha dei bottoni decorativi, la perfetta ciliegina sulla torta.

Non solo portarla, ma anche cucirla è un piacere (e si fa in poche ore), grazie alle istruzioni dettagliate come sempre. La gonna è completamente foderata, perciò il modello è definito come intermedio, ma anche una novellina coraggiosa ce la potrebbe fare, secondo me (basta tenere presente che le rifinizioni richiedono un po' di punti a mano).

Body: OVS
Ho fatto queste due gonne come tester per il modello e, come sempre, sono rimasta sbalordita dalla vestibilità. Con Deer and Doe, ormai, mi basta tagliare le mie solite taglie (38 per le spalle, 40 per seno e vita, 42 per i fianchi) e non devo praticamente fare modifiche... Alleluja! So che la vestibilità è una questione estremamente personale, e quindi non tutte avranno questa fortuna, ma io non potrei essere più felice di questi modelli.

Per le mie versioni future, ci sono due cose da cambiare:

✄ Lunghezza: la versione corta del modello è un po' troppo corta per come sono abituata e la versione lunga è un po' troppo lunga per la mia altezza (perchè non mi tagli, la devo portare coi tacchi, cosa che faccio estremamente di rado). Ridisegnerò la mia linea per l'orlo esattamente tra le due lunghezze, in modo che cada appena sopra al ginocchio.

✄ Tessuto: ho usato della lana che avevo in casa perchè sono troppo tirchia non mi piace comprare stoffa per le versioni test, visto che a volte risultano importabili, ma non viene elencata nei tessuti consigliati, e a ragione. Quella che ho usato io (specialmente quella a quadretti) è troppo spessa e non ha il giusto peso per questo modello. Guardate com'è subito più bello questo modello se fatto con un bellissimo cotone stampato (da Sandra) o con un cotone più pesante a tinta unita (da Clotilde)!


E voi che stoffa user(s)te?

13 comments:

  1. I like both variations, they do look flattering and classy, but my worry is - won't the the high waist get all wrinkly and not so flattering after sitting for a while? Or do I have this feeling only because I'm not aware of the proper fabrics suited for a skirt like this one... P.S. The leotard/body looks great on you!

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  2. I think it depends on the type of fabric you use... My guess is, not much more than a regular high waisted skirt. Might be a good factor to keep in mind when fabric shopping, though!

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  3. I love the high waist, but I would not go for a bulky fabric either - there are so many inches my hips can take.. I love the brown version better actually. Interesting pattern.

    www.made-inhome.blogspot.com

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  4. Both skirts are cute! I love the blue version, but not on me.

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  5. Wow, these are so cute! I love them on you! I don't really wear high-waisted skirts as I don't really know how to style them, but I love the outfits you've put together here!

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  6. Oh... but you made both !
    I'm really thinking of making one without the peplums in a brown color like yours !

    And may I ask you to change the link to my older blog => http://clopiano.wordpress.com/2014/03/05/spring-anemone/ (I'm having troubles with my .com...grrrrrr)

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  7. Oh... Anna but you made both !

    I'm really thinking of making one without peplums in a brown color like yours ; it looks so pretty

    May I ask you to change the link to my older blog http://clopiano.wordpress.com/2014/03/05/spring-anemone/ (I'm having troubles with my .com grrrr!)

    PS : I'm having trouble to write a comment too - it's the 2nd time !

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  8. These look lovely. I actually love the brown one the most I think. Did you make your own low back top in the end? x

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  9. Nope, this one is store bought, I'm still looking for a long sleeve version and will probably make it myself.

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  10. I really like the look of this pattern. I think it's the first time I've ever liked anything with a peplum!

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  11. gorgeous fit and looks smashing :)

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  12. Love this new pattern!!!! Lucky you getting to test!

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