Friday, October 10, 2014

Chambray Bruyère shirt


Size: 40 bust and waist, 42 hips
Alterations: I added sleeve tabs
Fabric: Locally purchased blue chambray

Last Summer, I have once again had the delightful chance to be a tester for Deer and Doe and to try their latest offering, the Bruyère shirt. It is a tunic-lenght shirt with a cinched waist and beautiful box pleats both on the front and on the back.

Although I love button-up shirts (and shirt collars and shirt dresses) and I wear them almost daily, I was initially a little perplexed by the length of Bruyère.
I know tunics are overall very popular (for some reason, I have the impression they are especially popular in France), but not in my wardrobe, because I tend to wear pants as rarely as I can, and when I do, it's NEVER skinny jeans or leggings. As you can see in these photos, I am rather evidently pear-shaped and I also have a big booty; I'm not extremely self-conscious of that, but I prefer not to display this area of my body too much (that's why I like dresses with a cinched waist and a full-ish skirt that hit above the knees).

For the sake of these photos, I decided to try something new and wear my Bruyère with leggings, but it's not something I'm likely to repeat soon. I mean, it is a really comfy outfit, it's just not me.

But luckily, Bruyère has proved to be pretty awesome with regular straight-leg jeans as well (maybe it just makes a bit less modern and youthful of an outfit this way), and I've been wearing it plenty this way. It really has been a great transitional garment for these first few weeks of Autumn, when it's very cold in the morning, then it gets warm in the central part of the day, and then it's cold again after sundown.

As per usual with Deer and Doe, I didn't need any fit adjustment (woohoo!). I added buttoned sleeve tabs (which I copied from Pauline Alice's Carme blouse pattern) because I always have my sleeves rolled up, but I found them redundant. Especially if you use a fabric with a bit of body like my chambray here, they stay up by themselves.

I found the construction of Bruyère particularly satisfying: it's not difficult (although I wouldn't recommend it to an absolute beginner), but it requires some precision and patience, which are a welcome challenge for someone a little more experienced. And if you like pretty insides, you can French seam the whole thing like I did and forget about serging or ugly zig zag stitch.

Of course, me being me, I could not resist the temptation to hack the pattern and make into a shirt dress, so that's the next finished thing you'll see around here (hopefully soon!).



Taglia: 40 per petto e vita + 42 per i fianchi
Modifiche: Ho aggiunto dei laccetti con bottone alle maniche per arrotolarle.

Tessuto: Chambray acquistato in un negozio locale.


Quest'estate, ho ancora una volta avuto la fortuna di fare da tester per Deer and Doe e di provare la loro ultima fatica, la camicia Bruyère. Si tratta di una camicia a lunghezza tunica, stretta in vita e con delle bellissime pieghe sia davanti che dietro.

Anche se amo le camicie (e i colletti da uomo, e gli abiti-camicia) e le porto quasi tutti i giorni, ero inizialmente un po' perplessa dalla lunghezza di Bruyère.
So che le tuniche in generale sono abbastanza apprezzate (specialmente in Francia, vero? O è solo una mia impressione?), ma non da me, poichè tendo ad indossare i pantaloni meno possibile, e quando lo faccio non si tratta MAI di skinny jeans o leggings. Come potete vedere anche in queste foto, sono fatta "a pera" in maniera abbastanza evidente, e inoltre ho un sedere importante; anche se ormai ho fatto pace con la mia predisposizione fisica, preferisco non mettere troppo in evidenza quest'area (ed è anche per questo che amo gli abiti con la vita stretta e la gonna ampia).

Per queste foto, ho deciso di provare qualcosa di nuovo e di mettere la mia Bruyère con dei leggings, ma non credo che lo rifarò presto. Certo, ero comodissima, ma a disagio e non mi sentivo "me".

Ma per mia fortuna, Bruyère si è dimostrata fantastica anche indossata con dei jeans a gamba dritta (forse in questo modo è solo un po' meno moderna e giovanile), e l'ho indossata parecchio con quest'abbinamento. E' davvero perfetta per la mezza stagione, in quelle giornate in cui la mattina fa freddo, poi inizia a fare caldo, e verso sera fa di nuovo freddo.

Come al solito con Deer and Doe, non ho dovuto fare alcuna modifica al modello (evvai!). Ho aggiunto dei laccetti abbottonati per tenere le maniche arrotolate, ma devo dire che sono ridondanti; specialmente con un tessuto con un po' di sostanza come questo chambray, le maniche arrotolate stanno su da sole.

Cucire Bruyère è stato particolarmente divertente e soddisfacente. Non si tratta di un processo difficile (anche se lo sconsiglierei a una principiante assoluta), ma richiede un po' di pazienza e di precisione, una sfida ben accetta da chi ha un po' di esperienza. E se vi piacciono le rifiniture pulite, potete usare cuciture all'inglese praticamente ovunque come ho fatto io, e dimenticarvi della taglia cuci o dell'orrido zig zag.

Ovviamente non ho saputo resistere alla tentazione di provare a trasformare questo modello in un abito camicia, perciò sarà il prossimo progetto finito che vedrete da queste parti (spero presto!).

Invece, se volete vedere i modelli Deer and Doe in azione, e acquistarli di persona, ottime notizie: troverete sia Eléonore (la creatrice di Deer and Doe) che me a Vicenza, ad Abilmente, dal 16 al 19 ottobre. Saremo nel padiglione 7, nell'atelier Moda fai da te insieme ad altre designer di cartamodelli e blogger (tra cui Silvia di Sewing Princess).
Veniteci a trovare! :D

49 comments:

  1. It looks great, looking forward to seeing the dress version. I have a weekness for shirt dresses too!

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  2. Definitely looking forward to the dress! It's an interesting pattern that I would not say is my style, but I have so far loved every version I have seen!

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  3. As soon as I saw this on you I was going to suggest you make it as a shirt dress. So pleased to see you are doing this. This looks fab on you and will look great as a dress.

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  4. Gorgeous shirt and you do look lovely in this outfit.

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  5. Molto bella Anna, complimenti! Non vedo l'ora di vederla "dal vivo" !!!

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  6. I honestly think that you look really really lovely in this outfit, leggings and all! But I can understand that you may not feel comfortable if it's not your style. I am also pear shape, but seem gravitate towards the opposite styles to you - I live in leggings/skinny jeans and tunics and full skirted, waisted dresses, although so much fun to wear, always make me feel a bit too over dressed!
    But, as soon as I saw you had made this I thought that a shirt dress hack would be perfect for you - so I'm really excited to see your finished result!m :)

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  7. When I first saw this pattern, I thought it wasn’t for me, and I’m still pretty convinced that it isn’t. But it’s a cute pattern and it looks lovely on you! I’m looking forward to seeing the dress version. That would probably still be too vintagey for me, but I’m thinking it will be perfect for you!

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  8. So in love with this pattern. Can't wait to make it up!

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  9. This is next on my list to sew, it does look lovely on you. Great idea about the shirtdress!

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  10. Mi piace tantissimo Anna... forse perchè sono francese hihi!

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  11. Grazie, Marine!
    Ma ho ragione o è un'idea bislacca che mi sono fatta, che le tuniche/camicioni piacciono più in Francia che qui?

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  12. Love the shirt dress idea, it also looks like it would make a good shirt if the waist darts are omitted and the sides are taken straight down

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  13. This is such a flattering shape on you! Love it! :)

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  14. You might be right!


    I was discussing this the other day with one client in Malta, I think she described well italians women, here what she said: " Italians don't usually have a sense of humour when it comes to clothes or even the way they look. Or irony, Unlike the British, who love to be eccentric. And the French, who are nothing like the image of perbenismo and conservatism they seem to have in the world. Italians like to look chic, stylish, expensive, sexy, rich, not necessarily in that order, and would mostly see that fabric as a children's print. My father was Italian but my mother was British so luckily I have that crazy touch... Think about it - do you often see Italian women who are slim wearing shapeless Japanese style clothing? Maybe the more northern and avant garde ones.... "


    Do you agree with her?

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  15. A me sono sempre piaciute molto questo tipo di camicie (ma non sono francese, eh!) e trovo che su di te stia molto bene. Ma non vedo l'ora di vedere la tua versione abito camicia!

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  16. oh bruyère as a dresss - brilliant! i have to disagree that this style is not you. i think you look really good in this silhouette!

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  17. I had the same thought process! I made a chambray bruyere (just like everyone else apparently!) and wished is was longer. So now I'm planning a plaid, flannel dress version - as soon as I find the right fabric.

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  18. Love your take on Bruyère. Did you raise the waist? The fit is absolutely perfect.

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  19. Nope, no fit alterations whatsoever. I'm very lucky to fit into the Deer and Doe measurements almost perfectly.

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  20. Oh thanks! I don't think I look in this, it's just out of my comfort zone, I feel a bit too exposed.

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  21. Great idea for a pattern hack!

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  22. This is very beautiful on you. I so waited for your Bruyère and it suits you very well. My thoughts about the length have been the same. Maybe I should shorten the front length like the length of the Archer vers. B? The back is quite flattering.
    Kind regards, SaSa

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  23. This blouse is really flatterting on you Paunette. The Bruyere is next on my list and of course it's in a chambray too. I don't know why but I just think this blouse was 'made' to be in chambray. :)

    Being pear shaped myself I don't even own any leggings. I have been hesitant to make it up since I have no idea how else to wear this tunic length. Would love to see some pics with straight jeans so I know how it looks...

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  24. This looks fantastic and I love it with legging on you!

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  25. I think it looks fantastic!! But most important is how you feel in it, of course, and I'm looking forward to seeing your dress version!

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  26. So beautiful on you! I have had it in the stash ready to use but haven't got around to it. I get what you mean about the tunic and leggings combo but I'm glad you found a way you're happy wearing it!

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  27. Thank you!
    Yeah, this pattern screams chambray, doesn't it? Then again, I've never seen a chambray shirt I didn't like, it's such a classic.
    I'll try and remember to take a pic next time I wear it!

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  28. I also thought about shortening it, but I'm not entirely sure about proportions... Maybe making the pleats less wide?

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  29. Oooh, that's a very interesting reflection, and I completely agree!

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  30. Love your version! such a cute pattern too!

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  31. This looks beautiful! I'm still a beginner, but I'm definitely putting this top on my list for later :)

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  32. Anna I'm giving you the award for best hair. I think secretly you're a mermaid. Are you a mermaid? Is that why you're not into leggings, because we could see your sparkley tail? Hmmmmm? Besides that, I love your version of this tunic, big booty and all x

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  33. This is crazy awesome, Anna! And glad to hear it works just as well with regular jeans- this lady is in a no leggings zone as well!

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  34. Anna, I am so glad that you're back! You are always such an inspiration to me.....my wardrobe is full of Deer & Doe creations, thanks to you. I was not initially drawn to this pattern either, but seeing your version has me second guessing myself......I'm definitely leaning towards trying it out. Can't wait to see your other version....

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  35. Well you look fantastic in this top! I think you rock the jeans and shirt look :)

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  36. I think you look fantastic! I can totally understand not wanting to wear leggings as pants, though, even if it is really cozy! Can't wait to see your dress version :)

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  37. Il risultato sembra migliore di quanto mi aspettassi dal modello. Ti sta bene, ma capisco il dubbio sui leggings... Non li metto neanche io. Be' spero di vederla dal vivo! Effettivamente dalle foto il modello sembra un po' a vita alta, ma magari è la posa. Anche se non c'entra nulla, mi piace la tua pettinatura!

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  38. This is GORGEOUS on you! It looks like it was designed just for you! I love how you've styled it here, even if you're not in love with the look.

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  39. I always look forward to your posts, and this is another Paunnet classic. Deer & Doe patterns are made for you. You're a great ambassador! In fact, I've just made my first Sureau inspired by your collection. Thanks for the inspiration. https://sewsouthlondon.wordpress.com/2014/10/11/a-liberty-robe-sureau/

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  40. Such a pretty top! I want to make one just like it now! I think this is one of my favorite matters put out by deer and doe so far

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  41. La combinazione camicia+leggings ti dona molto invece! E il pattern è davvero bello - penso proprio che lo farò replicare da amiche sarte :D
    Quest'estate l'ho passata praticamente con un outfit simile (la mia camicia è un po' più lunga), contro tutti i miei pronostici visto che sono dotata sia di un big booty che di una forma a clessidra su cui di solito le camicie e i leggings non stanno granché bene... evidentemente insieme fanno una specie di magia :)

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  42. I wasn't so sure about this pattern but yours is VERY cute. And I know you aren't crazy about it, but it looks really great with those leggings and boots. Probably still a bit too feminine for me as a pattern, but super flattering—and given I totally have the same body shape, maybe I'll get over my thing about overly feminine clothing and make things that are actually flattering to my body shape!

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  43. È davvero molto bella! Complimenti! E ti sta benissimo!

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  44. When this was released I thought Paunnet would go for this. It's so totally you. Looking forward to seeing other versions.

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  45. I love this shirt! I've just discovered your blog through Deer & Doe's blog and I'll make sure to come back and visit. I'm curious to see the dress version of this pattern :-)

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  46. Your shirt is really gorgeous, can't wait to make one!

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  47. Ta tunique est superbe et je trouve que ce style te va vraiment très bien! Le modèle ne m'avait pas emballée à sa sortie mais en voyant ta Bruyère, j'ai bien envie de me laisser tenter...

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